Ski Southeast Messageboard

My buddy Skot and I took off for Looking Glass this past Sunday morning. Arrived with temperatures warming and clear blue skies. The granite domes, like Looking Glass (especially south facing walls) collect the sun's warmth all day. This makes many of the areas in western NC climbable mostly during the winter, since any sunny day with temperatures reaching...50F plus or minus 5 degrees for some folks quite pleasant. While Sunday was much warmer than this. It was not uncomfortably hot in the sun, and definitely made for a beautiful day.







Usually on this round, folks belay from here. Some guy on the ground told me to climb up another 10-15 feet and belay at another ledge and it makes for less rope drag on the last pitch.



So I climb a little higher.



The section that he suggested belaying at has hollow rock and it difficult to protect. I'm not thrilled.



My buddy Skot peaking above the lip of the rock.



Skot on the top of the South Face of Looking Glass.



Me on the South Face of Looking Glass.

Very nice. How many pitches/what is it rated?

@EastCoaster 192149 wrote:Very nice. How many pitches/what is it rated?



We were fortunate that despite the beautiful weather the South Face was not really over run by crowds. We got on "First Return" 5.8, 2 pitches according to the guidebook (although I'd call it 2.5: short 5.5 up to the ledge, then 5.8 and 5.7). Then we did "Second Coming" which is what the pictures are of. It's a long two pitch 5.7 and 5.6 pitch respectively.



Both ultra classics on the South Face of Looking Glass.

Awesome. Just started climbing this summer, haven't led anything yet but having a blast sport climbing and bouldering even though I really suck at it right now. Comfortably climbing 5.7+, generally can make it up 5.8 with some work, lucky if I can send a 5.9, all top-roping.



Next summer/fall, after I get some more experience under my belt (and perhaps a couple trips to Seneca) I would love to make a trip your way and climb some stuff in NC.

looking good. id like to go climb sometime. havent been in a while

Can I ask a dumb question??? Ok thanks......In the picture labeled "Skot on the top of South Face....", how is it the top when it looks like you can still go up? Just wondering...



But nice photos! I know nothing about climbing, but that looks crazy!!!!!!!

@angel 192271 wrote:Can I ask a dumb question??? Ok thanks......In the picture labeled "Skot on the top of South Face....", how is it the top when it looks like you can still go up? Just wondering...



But nice photos! I know nothing about climbing, but that looks crazy!!!!!!!



I think what you are seeing as 'still being' able to go up, is an optical illusion of the Sun Wall in the background. This is actually not part of the same wall.



Also the rope is continuing 'higher' in front of us to the anchors, we took the pictures 'lower' down because the rock is low angle, so we went down to make the pictures more dramatic with the drop off. Notice how the rope is laying on the ground, the angle of the rock begins to level off right where we're standing.



And technically we could have continued another 30-40 feet to the 'top' of the South Face. However the 'tops' of many of the granite domes in western NC is rather arbitrary when it comes to climbing because the angle of the rock usually backs off and is no longer 5th class climbing.



Lower angle of the rock also makes descent more difficult, as the ropes will get stuck on ledges and such. So many routes on granite domes do not top out, they will have established 'tops' that mark the end of 'worthwhile' climbing.

Thanks, Joshua! That makes sense!!!

Enjoyed the pics!

Excellent pics. I want to get up there, but not ready for where you guys are going! Nice TR.



bb